Ecuador·1 - 12 February 2024
Enter the Dreamworld: the Ultimate Ecuador Adventure and Alpine Climbing Expedition with Top IFMGA Guides
ENQUIREA very experienced and well-respected American alpinist, is often quoted as saying that, “Ecuador is the ultimate proving ground for the Himalayas,” and while there is plenty of truth in that statement, we also believe that it downplays Ecuador as a place for alpinism. It is perfectly plausible that you could climb all over the Himalayas in your lifetime and still never be as happy as climbing in the ‘Andes Norte.’ Ecuador is a dreamworld. Scenes from a Japanese anime film by Studio Ghibli appear in real life wherever you turn. Vivid colors; greens, whites and blues, snow topped volcanoes, pristine lakes in surreal mountain backdrops and at the centre, Quito, the second highest capital city in the world at just under 3000m, a city of 8m people with a rich cultural and alpine heritage where 4000m mountains overlook the city. We invite you to join us on our Dreamworld Program to wonder at the awe and beauty of these landscapes, experience the famous South American 'onda' and tackle some of the most incredible high altitude ascents on the continent. We have designed a trip that showcases the best of climbing in Ecuador. We hope you will love it and this country as much as we do.
You have come this far so lets get you staying in the best accommodation options while you are here.
We have designed an expedition which showcases the best of Quito and Ecuador's high mountains.
Our uber-talented guides have the best 'onda' ('vibe') in Ecuador. But beyond that, their absolute priority is your safety and enjoyment.
Alejo Laazzati, IFMGA, is a great person, expedition guide and alpinist. He's one of South America's leading high altitude first responders and also teaches first aid at the guide school in Ecuador.
Our Ecuadorean Operations Manager, Elisa is super experienced and will leave no stone unturned in ensuring your whole expedition experience is a seamless one.
Oliver is a certified Mountain Leader, experienced adventurer, and alpinist.
The True Summit Adventures founder is also an Ecuador superfan, having spent a significant amount of time in Quito and its surrounding high mountains.
He has climbed most of the region's big peaks, with the exception of El Altar (high on his bucket list) and Cayambe (after turning back due to the risk of avalanche on his first attempt and high winds on his second).
Oliver loves climbing Chimborazo, his favorite mountain is Antisana, but perhaps his best day in 'Andes Norte' was when he ran from his apartment building in downtown Quito to the summit of Rucu Pinchincha and back in 10 hours 45 minutes.
In his opinion this sums up the magic of Ecuador, where it's possible to run from the centre of a vibrant city of eight million people, to the summit of a mountain nearly 5000m, in less than 12 hours.
Quito-native Andres is one of the most-experienced and most-talented IFMGA guides in South America. He is one of only a handful who have full certification, having completed ski seasons in Argentina, the US, and France.
Andres was the 'Director Tecnico de la Escuela de Guias' between 2006 and 2012. He continues to instruct there, and as such is responsible for developing the next generation of IFMGA guides in Ecuador and Bolivia.
A highly talented, multi-disciplined climber, he is equally at home on rock, ice, big wall and the climbing walls of Quito, but his real passion is high altitude ascents via new or difficult routes.
His best day in the mountains was on the fearsome and super technical Cayesh (5721m) in Peru.
Alejo is another team member with full IFMGA certification, having done ski seasons in Chamonix, Barriloche and the USA.
He joins True Summit Adventures as one of the most experienced high altitude first responders in South America.
He has been climbing the high mountains in Ecuador since his early teens, and when not guiding in Ecuador is regularly found in Argentina, Peru, and Bolivia.
Camilo is one of the most-liked and well-respected guides in Ecuador, and after spending a short amount of time in his company, it's easy to see why.
His enthusiasm and sense of fun is infectious and he is a great addition to any expedition or team.
Camilo has been traveling and climbing as long as he can remember. It was this passion which led him to study tourism at university before completing the UIAGM International Mountain Guide Program.
He has been working as a guide in Ecuador and Peru since 2012, loves photography, creating new adventure itineraries, climbing novel routes, and helping people turn their climbing dreams into a reality.
Camilo lives in central Quito where he dotes on his one daughter.
In this expedition we have distilled what we consider to be the best of the Ecuadorean high mountains into an action packed 12 day adventure culminating in the ascent of the great Chimborazo, Ecuador's highest mountain. Good acclimatisation is key to this trip and we have structured the itinerary in such a way as to give you the best chance of summiting all the mountains on our schedule. As such, we start by easing into the trip with a city tour of Quito, the first ever city to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 1978.
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On arrival in Quito, you'll be met at the airport by a True Summit Adventures team member and taken to the Marriott hotel. Our base in the city's Gonzalez Suarez neighborhood, it's very close to the famous Avenida Isabel Catolica, home to some of best of Quito's restaurants and bars, as well as frenetic Plaza Foch.
The hotel has a pool, gym, and spa, so whether you want to push yourself with some last-minute training or acclimatise more gently with a massage, we have you covered.
In the evening of day one we meet as a team for dinner, where you'll be introduced to the guides, recieve an expedition briefing, and undergo a gear check.
Explore the first city UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Our acclimatisation begins in central Quito (2850m), the first city to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. This was back in 1978 in order to protect the city's incredible eighteenth-century architecture, priceless colonial treasures, and its living traditions and culture.
Our city tour takes in Quito's culturally important sites, including the cathedral, and Plaza Grande. We then stand on the equator line, where you can try to balance an egg on a nail or watch as water spins clockwise on one side of the imaginary line and anti-clockwise on the other.
Our evening meal will be at one of the most fashionable restaurants in the La Floresta neighbourhood.
Lake Cuicocha acclimatisation hike.
Today we dive straight into some of the most beautiful scenery in Ecuador with an acclimatisation hike of Cuicocha.
The hike covers around 11km in five or six hours, and varies in elevation from 3000 to 3500m.
The scenery is extraordinary, encompassing a 3km-wide 'crater lake' at the foot of Cotacachi volcano.
Rucu Pinchincha hike.
Day four is our first chance to get to some serious altitude as we climb the famous Rucu Pinchincha, nestled on the outskirts of Quito.
The climb is not technical although there are some steep scrambles in places as we reach 4700m and enjoy amazing views across the city.
After the climb we board the transport and head out on our expedition proper.
Explore the volcanoes of Illinizas National Park
Following a two hours drive from Quito we reach Illinizas National Park. Although it teems with springs, streams, rivers and lakes, it's best known for its twin volcanoes of the same name - Illinizas North and South.
We leave the vehicles at 3950m for a 3-4 hour hike through upper moorland, with beautiful and far reaching views of the park. Mules and ponies will transport our main bags, so you're free to appreciate nature at its best.
In a saddle between the twin volcanoes is our day's destination, the Nuevos Horizontes refuge which sits at 4700m.
It may be one of the more basic refuges in Ecuador, but the food served here by "Gato", its custodian (named after his cat-like eyes) is amongst the best.
On arrival we settle in for some warm tea, food, lots of story sharing and rest for the incredible climbs ahead of us.
Stand above 5000m
Today we tackle Illiniza Norte, our first 5000'er, leaving the refuge at around 5am following an early breakfast.
The route comprises some excellent scrambling and continued acclimatisation, not to mention stunning views of the Avenue of Volcanoes as we arrive to the summit at 5125m.
We then descend over the opposite side of the mountain. Here we meet the vehicles and continue on to Chuquiragua Lodge for showers, a big dinner, and a warm bed.
Being the ascent of Cayambe
In years gone by we would have climbed the great Cotopaxi, the second highest mountain in Ecuador. However, volcanic activity beginning in 2022 has forced the closure of the mountain to climbers for the forseeable future.
But fear not, a worthy substitute awaits as we turn our attention to Cayambe instead; the third highest mountain in Ecuador and possibly the most beautiful.
We overnight at Cayambe refuge at 4600m, ready to summit this mighty mountain tomorrow.
Summiting Mount Cayambe
With over 1000m in altitude to climb we leave the Joleas-Ruales-Berge hut just after midnight.
The climb is deceptively long, and also much steeper than portrayed by the map in the refuge canteen, so you'll need a healthy amount of determination to reach its peak.
Having done so, we descend back towards Quito for a night at the wonderful Casa Ilayaku.
Transfer to Chimborazo.
Today we transfer to the incredible Chimborazo Lodge, located at 4000m at the base of the Chimborazo volcano, in the historic Totorillas Valley.
Chimborazo Lodge is surely one of the most incredible mountain accommodations in the world with a unique character and history. Built and owned by famed guide Marco Cruz, the hotel is part mountain lodge and part museum! Don't forget to ask to see the Reinhold Messner suite, and admire the original ice axe used for his Nanga Parbat ascent.
Scaling Chimborazo.
This afternoon we leave our vehicles and hike for two hours over mostly scree and rock to the high camp at 5400m.
The high camp is semi-permanent and looks like part of the set of the original Star Wars film with its white domed tents.
In good spirits and with excitement for the experience to come, we rest and prepare for the summit night ahead.
We encourage everyone to eat and rest as the night's trek will be long and arduous.
Summiting Chimborazo
Chimborazo is the highest mountain in Ecuador and the furthest point from the centre of the Earth, surpassing Mount Everest by 2km due to the planet's equatorial bulge.
Reaching its lofty peak is therefore a huge experience. It's one which takes patience and endurance, but unlike the much climbed Cotopaxi, is rarely considered by Ecuadorians. It's highly likely we will have the route to ourselves.
Time to say our goodbyes.
We hope your memory of Ecuador and its beautiful mountains and mountain culture lives long in the memory.
Drivers will be on hand to take you to the airport, should you not be taking the opportunity to explore the Galapagos Islands too.
Our base for our time in the capital is the JW Marriott in the fashionable Gonzalez Suarez neighborhood. It's adjacent to La Floresta, where all the best restaurants and bars are located.
The Illiniza's refuge is basic, but homely, with accommodation in a communal bunk room. The refuge's custodian, "Gato," produces some of the best high altitude food in the Andes.
Chuquiragua Lodge is the best mountain accommodation in the Illinizas area, making it the perfect place to decompress after our first 5000'er.
The Cayambe is one of the best refuges anywhere in Ecuador. Boasting a modern European style, it's known for great food and comfy beds. Accommodation here is in small, private dorms.
A home away from home, Casa Ilayaku is a warm and cosy boutique hotel. Its beautiful gardens keep the hotel's superb kitchen packed with fresh produce.
Another great accommodation pick, forming an almost dream-like Andes escape. Built in the shadow of Chimboazo, alpacas roam the surrounding grassland, and the stars shine brightly each night. Part mountain hotel and part museum, the Meissner suite contains the ice axe the great man used to conquer Nanga Parbat.
The Chimborazo High Camp is a semi-permanent camp situated at 5400m. It consists of several dome tents housing the accommodation and communal eating areas.
Airport transfers
All accomodations
Welcome drinks party
All meals for the duration of the trip
IFMGA guides, max 2 clients per guide
Park entry and climbing permits
High altitude first responder
Expedition logistics manager
All expedition transport
Iridium Satellite Phone
International flights
Travel insurance
Kit hire
Alcoholic drinks
Lunch on arrival / departure day
Come early for some extra acclimatisation; hike Cerro Las Puntas and climb Pasochoa
PRICE$732.49/pp
Ideally you would have completed a high altitude trek to Kilimanjaro or Aconcagua, or have experience of a lower but more technical mountain like Mont Blanc. If you have very good fitness, endurance, or are an experienced adventurer, but lack altitude or alpine experience, please contact us to discuss if this is the right expedition for you.
Ecuador is an amazing country and its people are very friendly. However, like most Central and South American countries there are some risks posed by extreme poverty and economic migration. It's best to be careful when traveling in Quito at night. By all means ask our team if in doubt about visiting anywhere in Ecuador.
We strongly recommend you visit the Galapagos Islands while visiting Ecuador. Our logistics manager Elisa will be more than happy to assist you with planning and booking this part of your journey.
Chimborazo is a big mountain and like any 6000'er has a high altitude gain between the high camp and summit. A good level of fitness and perseverance is required to reach its summit.
Ecuador has a long history of alpinism and, like its refuges, has some of the best guides in South America. Our team are all seasoned professionals and IFMGA guides.
Absolutely. We will organise this for you.
The US dollar has been used in Ecuador since 2000, when it replaced the sucre after a long period of economic instability. Bringing dollars saves the need to exchange currency in country.
The high mountains in Ecuador take some climbing. Please come fit and ready for long days to give yourself the best chance of summiting the higher mountains.
Climbing equipment is expensive in Ecuador due to sales taxes on imports. It's better to arrive with everything you need.
I am thrilled to share with you the incredible experience I had with True Summit Adventures on my trip to Ecuador! This company truly exceeded my expectations and provided me with a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that I will never forget. The highlight of my trip was undoubtedly the mountain climbing expeditions. We tackled some of the most stunning peaks in the region, including Ilinize Norte, Cayambe, and Chimborazo volcanoes. Each climb was a unique and unforgettable experience, with breathtaking views and challenging but rewarding trails. The expertise and guidance of our guides were crucial in ensuring our safety and success, and I felt completely supported and confident throughout the entire journey. Apart from the mountain climbs, we also had a fantastic sightseeing tour of Quito, where we got to learn about the rich history and culture of the area. The city is a beautiful mix of colonial architecture and modern amenities, and we were able to explore some of the hidden gems that only locals know about. The lodges we stayed at were also top-notch, and I especially loved the Chimborazo lodge. It was cozy and comfortable, with stunning views of the surrounding landscape. We were able to relax and recharge after each climb, and the accommodations were a perfect balance of comfort and ruggedness. Lastly, I have to give a shoutout to Ollie, the owner of True Summit Adventures, who joined us on the trip. He was an incredible guide, knowledgeable, personable, and made sure that every aspect of the trip was exceptional. His enthusiasm and passion for the outdoors were contagious, and he went above and beyond to ensure that everyone had a great time. Overall, I can't recommend True Summit Adventures enough. This company provided me with an unforgettable adventure, and I came away from the trip with a newfound appreciation for the beauty of Ecuador and its people. If you're looking for an exciting and challenging adventure with knowledgeable and friendly guides, True Summit Adventures is the way to go.
Wayne Mills-Kidals
I was really excited about this expedition but I was also nervous, after going to EBC it had been 3 years since being at altitude but also having never done Alpine climbing before I didn't know what to expect. The kit list was broken down very well and helped me pack accordingly. The journey from arrival to attempting to summit the largest peak was very well planned and gradual, climbing larger and larger peaks as the trip went on, the locations we stayed in were stunning and Oliver and the guides were exceptional and encouraging. Ecuador is an amazing place and the trip has made me more confident in doing alpine expeditions and I can't wait for the next one! Big thank you to Oliver and the True Summit Adventures team!
Jack Aston-Hull
Had an excellent trip to Ecuador with True Summit. In the the different climbs in each area progressed and built well on the previous climbs. While we were in Ecuador the accommodation was great with Casailayaku and the hotel in Chimborazo particular highlights. The trip was adapted as per the needs of the group with an excellent group of guides! 10/10 would definitely recommend!!!
Ed Kelsey-Browne
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Oliver Browne · Wed 1 Mar 2023
Climbing the highest mountains in Ecuador - what is it like and what to expect?